Journeys often tell stories that are larger than the path covered. One such journey, from Mae Chaem to Chiang Dao, paints a compelling narrative about nature, agriculture, and a rapidly changing environment.
Golden Fields and Cloud-Touched Peaks
Starting at Mae Chaem’s heart, a trip on a four-wheel drive introduces travelers to a canvas of alternating sceneries with glimpses of expansive corn plantations. Not so long ago, these cornfields signified affluence and abundance. Today, they are symbols of both beauty and rising concern.
By October, these gold stretches start fading to pale yellow, signaling the need for nourishment. As one continues to ascend, the mesmerizing green hills play peek-a-boo, increasingly interrupted by yellow patches. These aren’t just patches but are rather stark reminders of corn’s growing dominance.
Turn the clock back a few decades, and this panorama was different. It was predominantly green, decorated with rice paddies and diverse vegetation. This was the landscape that the Pakakayor tribe nurtured and thrived in. Times have changed and so have the hues of these landscapes.
Maize: The New Gold?
Recently, the districts around Chiang Dao have witnessed a notable trend. Maize, the golden crop, has found favor among both the hill tribes and those in the lowlands. Its promise of better returns has been too alluring to resist. However, this agricultural shift isn’t exclusive to Chiang Dao; it mirrors in several northern regions.
The Forests Tell Their Tale
A trek into the forests can be an eye-opener. While the edges may still boast of green abundance, a deeper exploration often uncovers the distressing reality of deforestation. This isn’t just limited to national parks but has spread its tentacles into conservation forests too.
The hill tribes here have lived for a long time, even before the area was declared a wildlife sanctuary. The authorities granted them areas to cultivate. However, recently, more forest areas have been cleared illegally, primarily due to the high price of corn. The landscape, which was once forested, has now transformed into bare hills. These have been stripped by burning and have been progressively encroached upon, reaching almost to the mountaintops.
Park authorities, despite their best intentions, find themselves overwhelmed. Limited manpower, vast territories to monitor, and the added layer of managing tribal relationships make forest conservation an uphill task.
The Environmental Domino Effect
April brings another challenge to these regions. The area over there, spanning several hundred rai, has been cleared due to the burning of agricultural residues in preparation for planting in May when the rains begin. Fire is an efficient and cost-effective tool for transforming forests into cultivable land. Many hill tribes, in their pursuit of cost-efficiency, use fire to clear land. Such fires, whether intentional or accidental, occasionally spread to the forests, resulting in devastating wildfires. One only has to observe the rampant fires on Chiang Dao Mountain as proof. Given the challenging terrains, managing these fires is no small feat.
The agricultural boom has its shadows. Every year, a troubling haze hangs over the northern regions. While there are multiple contributors to this phenomenon, the sprawling maize fields and the subsequent burning after harvest play significant roles. Amplifying the problem are similar activities in neighboring nations, like Myanmar, where Thai corporate agricultural interests are deeply invested.
The local communities, while benefiting from maize cultivation, might be overlooking its long-term environmental costs. These include alarming forest fires, choking smog in cities, landslides from eroded soils, and the aftermath of corn residue burning.
Hope in Tradition
But it’s not all grim. There are pockets of hope. Communities like the “Pakakayor” or Karen, particularly those in places like Mae Kong Sai within the Doi Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary, are beacons of conservation. They have upheld their age-old traditions, protecting vast forests and ensuring rivers like the Mae Kong Sai continue to flow with vigor.
However, not all tribes share this conservationist perspective. For many, maize offers a promise of prosperity, even if it means trading lush forests for cornfields.
The Road Ahead
Understanding the wildfire crisis in the Northern regions necessitates recognizing maize cultivation’s cascading effects. If sustainable solutions are to be found, this link between maize’s proliferation and deteriorating air quality can’t be overlooked.
The landscapes between Mae Chaem and Chiangdao whisper tales of change, challenges, and choices. It’s up to us to listen, learn, and act.
